Bloomy Cheese!

This week's main article for the Cheese Newsletter

Charles de Gaulle, former president of France, asked the question, “How can you govern a country which has 246 varieties of cheese?” Since Charles was in office, the varieties of cheese in France has nearly doubled! And while France may lead the pack in cheese consumption, our very own United States is the world's top producer of cheese. Over 600 varieties, styles and types of cheese are produced in Wisconsin alone, making up over a third of the country's production. It is crazy to think that a product so diverse begins with the same humble ingredient. Milk. Milk is the principal element in all cheese. Though the source commonly varies between four animals; cow, sheep, goat and buffalo, the end result explodes into hundreds of variations.

The basic process of cheese making sounds simple enough, but making cheese is the perfect culmination of art and science. In each step, the cheese maker must make decisions that will affect the the end product. The cultures and enzymes may be measured perfectly and the temperatures could be spot on, but if a cheese maker lacks imagination and good old fashioned gut instincts, the product will inevitably fall flat.

First, the milk is either pasteurized or left raw. Already there is much debate among cheese critics and makers over which is better; pasteurized or raw milk. Pasteurized milk is heated to 158-162°F to destroy microorganisms that could potentially cause sickness or spoilage. However, in this process subtle flavors and aromas could also be destroyed. Raw milk cheeses are required by the FDA to be aged at least 60 days. During which time, acids and salt in the cheese naturally destroy harmful bacteria that could be present.

In the next step, cultures and rennet are added to the milk. Cultures help determine the flavor and texture of the cheese. The amounts and types of cultures are selected and measured carefully, as a small fluctuation could greatly impact the final product. Rennet is arguably the most important ingredient in cheese, for without it, cheese would not exist. Rennet is an enzyme, most commonly obtained from the stomach lining of young calves or sheep, however it can also be derived from some plants, molds or also genetically engineered. Rennet's job is to coagulate the milk, creating solids, called curds, and liquid, called whey. The whey is drained and the curd is cut and cooked. Generally, large curds are cooked at lower temperatures yielding softer cheese and smaller curds are cooked at higher temperatures and yield harder cheeses like Gruyere and Romano.

Next the curds begin to take shape. They are salted and undergo different types of stretching, cutting or washing before they are formed into their characteristic shapes. Most cheeses are pressed for several hours in blocks or wheels to unify the curds. The more pressure that is applied the more water escapes producing a harder cheese. Other curds are stretched in hot water developing a stringy and elastic body that is ideal for mozzarella or provolone. Curds that will be made into mild cheeses, like Edam or Colby, are washed in warm water, lowering the acidity.

The last step in cheese making is ripening and aging. This is called affinage. During this time, cheeses develop their individualized flavors and nuances. They are stored in very specific environments for different amounts of time, ranging between a few months and several years. Humidity and temperature are closely monitored and samples are taken throughout the process. During the affinage, cheeses may be additionally treated. Some may be washed in oil or brine solutions, wrapped in cloth or sprayed or injected with certain types of molds.

Cheeses that are sprayed with mold are referred to as bloomy rind cheeses. Due to a short pressing time, they contain a high percentage of water and as the cheese ages, the water evaporates and creates a soft, pasty texture. The wheels are then sprayed with a particular strain of fungus which breaks down the paste from the outside, in creating that deliciously oozy layer. The fungus is also inseminated with yeast, which develops a soft cover of mold during the ripening.

Butler's Farm Tomme is a bloomy rind cheese made from sheep's milk. Tommes originate from the French Alps and Switzerland and are usually identified by their place of origin Most famous is Tomme de Savoie, made in Savoie, France. It is traditionally served melted with mashed or roasted potatoes. However, Tomme can be substituted for any recipe that calls for Brie or Camembert. Enjoy with the rind on or off, at room temperature or warm out of the oven. It is earthy and creamy and pairs well with melon, berries and sundried tomatoes. Stick with the fruit theme when pairing with wine or beer. Choose a wine like Pinot Noir, that is typically fruity and medium bodied. Similarly, beers like New Glarus' Wisconsin Belgium Red that are full of fruit flavor pair wonderfully with this cheese. For special occasions, Tomme also pairs well with sparkling wines!

 

Tomme and Roasted Squash Baked in Phyllo

1 sm winter squash (festival, butternut, acorn, kombucha, etc)

½ t cinnamon

½ c butter, melted

4 T maple syrup

Butlers Farm tomme

phyllo dough, thawed

Preheat oven to 400°

Remove the skin from the squash and cut flesh into ½” cubes.

Toss the squash with cinnamon, 2 T butter, 2 T syrup and a pinch of salt. Spread out on a parchment lined sheet pan and bake 10-15 minutes, or until tender. Allow to cool to room temperature.

Cut the Tomme in similar sized cubes.

Combine remaining butter and syrup.

Brush one sheet of phyllo with butter and cut into 4 squares. Place one piece of squash and one piece of cheese in 2 squares. Carefully, wrap the dough around the cheese and squash. Wrap each piece again in the remaining dough. Be sure not to tare the dough.

Brush another sheet of phyllo with butter and cut in half. Place the wrapped pieces in the center and pull the corners up and pinch the dough together to form a beggars purse and place on a parchment lined baking sheet.

Repeat until all the squash and cheese is wrapped.

Lightly brush the sides and tops of the purses with remaining butter.

Chill for 10 minutes in the fridge before baking for 10 minutes, or until crisp and golden.

Make an assortment of cheesy appetizers with other flavors such as; whole grain mustard and prosciutto, caramelized onion, fruit preserve or apple.