Radicchio di Treviso

Don't be mistaken, contrary to popular belief, radicchio is not a lettuce. It is actually a type of chicory. Chicories thrive in cold weather making them a late fall or winter crop. Included in the chicory family are frisee, endive, escarole and radicchio. Varieties of radicchio are named for the region where they originate. These red, leafy chicories originated in the region of Treviso in northern Italy and so, bear the name. The great thing about Italian is that, it is pretty easy to sound out. At least in this case, it is pronounced just as you think it should: rah-DEE-kee-oh dee trav-E-so. The Italians take their chicories almost as serious as they do their cheese. Like Parmigiano-Reggiano, Radicchio di Treviso was grated Protected Geographical Status (PGS) under European Union law.

Treviso is very popular in Italian cuisine, however is shamefully most commonly seen in the US as filler in prepacked mixed greens. It's vibrate colored leaves stand out among the other leafy plants and have a crisp, yet tender texture. Treviso has a bitter taste, similar to kale or chard, that we American's seem to run from. Our palates tend to prefer sweet over bitter, while Europeans embrace bitter flavors. Bitter isn't bad, but it does, generally, need to be balanced. Adding an element of fat, like bacon, cheese, olive oil, toasted nuts or sausage gets the job done. Or, if you wish to stay true to your American palate, adding some sweetness, like honey, apple or pear will also balance out the bitterness. Treviso also mellows when cooked; braising, roasting, grilling or searing are the best cooking methods.

As the availability of salad greens dwindles, treviso makes an excellent stand in. The chill of late autumn days make me crave warming foods and a salad of roasted or seared treviso hits the spot! Roast in the oven or sear in cast iron and top simply with shaved Parmesan, crispy lardons and a drizzle of oil and balsamic vinegar or with sliced apples, fennel and walnuts. But wait there's more! Treviso is more versatile than you may think. It is excellent shredded and added to creamy risotto. You can puree cooked treviso to make a soup or garnish soups with grilled and chopped treviso. Use it in pasta dishes that feature cream and sausage or as a filling for stuffed pasta.

To store, keep in plastic bag or wrapped in damp paper towel in the refrigerator. Before using, remove any outer leaves that may be wilted. You can pull whole leaves from the head or cut the head in half or quarters, depending on your intended use. In the center of the head is a core, which is edible but most often is discarded. Cut a 'v' shape in halved heads to remove this core or pull whole leaves until only the core remains.

There are entire cook books dedicated to preparing chicories, so don't feel stumped if this is your first encounter with this striking vegetable. Here is a recipe to get you started!

 

Flat bread pizza with roasted squash and treviso

This recipe only seems labor intensive. It actually comes together quite easily! You can also use a store bough pizza skin or any pesto you made this summer!

Squash:
1-2 squash (butternut, sugar baby, festival)
4 garlic cloves, unpeeled
2 sprigs sage
2 T olive oil

pesto (there will be some leftover!):
1 c spinach
½ c walnuts, toasted
3 cloves garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
dough:
1 c warm water
1 T honey
1 T olive oil
1 packet (2 1/4 tsp) active dry yeast
2 ¾ c whole wheat flour
1 t salt
slaw:
1 head radicchio, outer leaves removed, cored and sliced
4 sprigs flat leaf parsley, leaves finely sliced
juice of half a lemon
1 T olive oil
salt and pepper
assembly/extras:
1 shallot, sliced thin
¼ c Parmesan cheese
¼ c pine nuts, toasted
Roast the squash: preheat the oven to 400°. Place halved squash cut side up and top with garlic, sage, oil, salt and pepper. Roast until very tender, about 35-40 minutes. Once cool enough to handle, scrape flesh into a food processor. Squeeze garlic cloves out of their peels into the bowl as well. Blend until smooth and set aside.
Make the slaw: Combine all of the ingredients and store in the fridge until ready to serve.
Make the pesto: Place all ingredients in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until everything is blended, scraping down sides of the bowl as needed. Season to taste. Put in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap to avoid discoloration and set aside.
Make the dough: Combine water, honey, oil and yeast in a large bowl. Let the yeast set for about five minutes or until you see bubbles forming on the surface. Add the flour and salt. Stir with a wooden spoon until combine. Knead with your hands until you have a smooth lump of dough.
Make the pizza!: Increase oven to 450°. Roll dough out to about 1/4 inch thickness and transfer to a pizza stone or oiled sheet pan. Spread the squash puree evenly onto the crust. Dollop the pesto on top and sprinkle the shallots on. Bake for 15-20 minutes. Remove and top with radicchio slaw, cheese and pine nuts. Return to oven for 3-5 minutes. Slice and serve warm!